Pride in America: Disposable Dress Circa 1995

If you've been an artist or maker for many years, you can probably relate to stumbling across something made years earlier and seeing it as if someone else has made it.

I started spring cleaning early this year, and cleaned out my closet space last weekend. In the way back of the closet I found this piece I made almost 25 years ago as part of my final BFA show.


On first glance this looks totally like real fabric, like a pretty pattern and shiny, solid colored chintz accessories. But this piece was made entirely from materials made to be thrown away.
 
The dress fabric is made from vintage disposable curtains from the 1950's, fully lined with a white paper disposable tablecloth. The belt and jacket are made from a red plastic disposable tablecloth. I used a vintage 1950's dress pattern to make the dress, although I can't remember which one (it may be in my studio closet, but that's an absolute disaster until I clean it out ;).


The hangar is a typical type of disposable dry cleaning hanger from the day (I made this in approximately 1995-1996).


"Pride In America" indeed. Although you couldn't see this part of the piece without opening the jacket, this is where the title comes from.


Although made of plastic and paper, I remember taking the time to finish all the details in the dress, from the eyelets in the belt to the topstitching in the dress and jacket.



I was (and still am) in love with the detailed print on the curtain fabric. I wish I knew more about the fabric, but when I thrifted it there was no manufacturer name anywhere on the panel.




And here's what memory was sparked by this dress. Back in Art school, I had a male professor give me some heartfelt advice about the work I was striving to make (just like this dress). Specifically, I made a set of painted paper string bikini sets and hung them in a group show in the student gallery. The paper was strong enough to hold it's shape directly on the wall as if there was a body within it. To me, this piece spoke directly to the disembodiment of women under the male gaze. And I thought the intent was pretty obvious, right? Also, many male peers told me at the show opening that they really liked my piece, mostly because they immediately imagined some random hot babe in the swimsuits. Duh, dude, that's the point.

Anyway, this male professor said the things I made looked more like window displays than fine art, and maybe I'd be better served with a design degree than Art - insinuating that my work wasn't any good. At all. In any way, shape, or form.

One year later I was awarded the prestigious Rickert-Ziebold Trust Award for my undergraduate BFA body of work, a show that included this dress. A rather apropo ending to my time in art school.


I'm going to leave it up on the design wall for a few days since it's been hidden away so long. And I think this piece has more relevance to me today than when I originally made it, now showing the wear and tear from moving with me several times and materials starting to yellow from age.

Comments

raebethriv said…
Thanks for the memory trigger! I remember the feel of those thin plastic curtains! We must’ve had them hanging on our unheated back porch growing up. Beautiful work! Can’t believe the “disposables” are beautifully intact for 60+ years!
Erika Mulvenna said…
Oh raebethriv that is so cool! Yes, it does have that funky texture!
I don't think I'd ever heard of disposable curtains before. Interesting. Great dress. Sometimes you just have to ignore people's comments and keep on keeping on. It's just their opinion. You found that out when you won the award.
Erika Mulvenna said…
Thanks Cheryl's Teapots2Quilting! Yeah, when I thrifted the material I wasn't too sure what it was until I unfolded it to find the rod pocket and large drapery hem. I also thrifted some curtains that were this dreamy green color, very shiny and translucent - but when I showed this fabric to my professor she identified it as made from glass fibers and told me it was very dangerous to handle! Good thing too, I would have turned it into a dress. ;)

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